September 21 – 24, 2023
September 21 – 24, 2023
September 21 – 22, 2023
To those on the east coast, the thought of flying to Alaska “for the weekend” sounds very strange and I got more than a few chuckles when telling our plans to our friends. However, from Seattle, it is not a big deal at all. We decided to go to Juneau instead of Anchorage because we only had the weekend, and so didn’t have time to do Anchorage and the surrounding area justice. We immediately found out there is a different vibe in Alaska than the lower 48. The first indication was the stuffed cinnamon and polar bears in the baggage claim area!
We spent the first day just walking around Juneau, which has been the state capital since 1906. It’s not a big city and we could walk from the tourist area to the downtown area with the government offices easily. The character of the two areas were very different though. The tourist area was surrounded by a mountain on one side and the Gastineau Channel on the other. In between ran a narrow strip of land a few blocks wide that was filled with stores selling furs, jewelry, and souvenirs. North of this area, the land widened out and within a few blocks the stores gave way to office buildings and the state capital building. There were a few cafes and shops but not many. At first we thought we would blend in with the locals easily; after all, we were all Americans! Very quickly though we noticed that it was pretty obvious we weren’t from Juneau. The day was gray with a drizzling rain and the damp chill of a 50-degree rainy day had us wrapped up in layers topped by raincoats. Seemed pretty practical to us! The locals though were walking around in short sleeves with no coats at all. I guess we were just not hardy enough for a balmy late September day in Alaska!
We had planned to have Alaskan King Crab for lunch, following our theme of eating the local favorite food. However, the price per pound was $50 which was just a little more than we wanted to pay. So we found some local halibut at The Hangar on the Wharf restaurant, which was excellent, even if it wasn’t King Crab.
September 23, 2023
The second day, Saturday, we went north to the Mendenhall Glacier. We lucked out with the weather: it was cloudy and rainy in the morning but by 11 am it had cleared off and the afternoon was partly cloudy and 55 degrees – perfect for a walk in the woods in front of the glacier. There were actually several trails around the area, some more lengthy and challenging than others. We chose the Trail of Time, a fairly flat trail that started in front of the glacier and extended about a mile south of it. Not long into the walk we felt as if we had fallen down the rabbit hole along with Alice. The woods were deep and beautiful, with large boulders scattered about, and some little glens were completely covered in moss, giving the place an other-worldly feeling. The scenery was relaxing and inspiring all at once. Every now and then we would pass a sign telling us that x-number of years ago, the glacier had reached to that current place, reminding us that the glacier was ever receding. Further evidence of this could be seen from the visitor center. We could see the blue ice of the glacier in the distance from the huge panoramic windows; however, when they built the visitor center in 1962, the ice had extended to the center itself.
After finishing the Trail of Time, we still had plenty of time and energy to do another short trail where there was a possibility of seeing bears feeding on the salmon returning to their spawning sites in preparation for their winter hibernation. This turned into a good lesson about enjoying experiences without getting attached to any particular outcome. We did not see any bears, but we had a nice relaxing walk through the area, seeing the trickling streams and greenery surrounding the water. On the way back to the car, we saw a double rainbow highlighted against the mountain and glacier behind it. So one one hand, no bears which we could have gotten disappointed and upset about. On the other, we got to see a magnificent natural spectacle we are unlikely to ever see again.
The Trail of Time
Auke Beach (North of Juneau)
Susan & Mays Big Adventure © 2023